I’ve been intrigued with acid-based deodorants ever since I saw an ad for Saltair’s clear deodorant a few years ago. I had to wait to try my hand at one, though, because I just did NOT know enough at the time. I didn’t understand what certain ingredients were for, even when I looked them up, and I had zero understanding of possible alternatives if I couldn’t get my hands on an ingredient they used. So, I left the idea of formulating one on the back burner and just made other things. In the meantime, I researched and read and experimented. About a month ago, I decided to see if I could try to formulate an acid deodorant again, and this time around, it was almost effortless. I found that I didn’t need to look up anywhere near as many ingredients, and the ones I didn’t have, or couldn’t get, I had possible alternatives popping up in my mind without having to think too hard.
So let me introduce to you my version of a mandelic acid roll-on deodorant! Let me start with the obvious: this version is not clear. The original product has an ingredient that helps keep bacteria and fungus away that I can only assume is also clear, but I can’t get my hands on that as a home formulator. So I had to find another ingredient that can do the job. That’s where I had the brilliant idea of using zinc pyrithione. Zinc pyrithione is most commonly used in anti-dandruff shampoo in the US (It is banned in Europe, so please research this ingredient on your own and decide if you want to use it, or not.). I find it to be quite effective against bacteria and fungus. I researched it and found that it is also used in other formulations, like deodorant, so in it went. That is the ingredient, though, that turns this formula a milky white color. Rest assured, though, this formula dries clear and there is ZERO white cast, so Black and Brown-skinned folks have nothing to worry about.
I added some chamomile hydrosol because aside from being soothing and calming to skin, it also has some mild antiseptic and antibacterial properties - not to mention it can also help to lighten hyperpigmentation. Of course, the key ingredient is mandelic acid which is one of the least irritating AHAs available. Mandelic acid has antibacterial properties that help prevent odor-causing bacteria from growing. It is also very effective at exfoliation - which will keep dead skin build-up at bay, as well as help to reveal brighter skin and prevent hyperpigmentation. I also added just a touch of Alpha Arbutin which, used in combination with mandelic acid, is highly effective at lightening dark patches on your skin. Another key ingredient is Rosehip Seed Oil. This oil not only adds a light moisture to the skin, but it also helps with hyperpigmentation, and has antibacterial properties, as well as many other benefits. I also added a bit of hyaluronic acid to help keep the area moisturized and help with the viscosity.
Now, let’s talk about the performance of this product… It’s actually quite amazing! The scent fades after a few hours, but left in its wake is absolutely nothing. No scent, no stink, no funk, just nothing. And its “funk-fighting” powers last for over 24 hours and through a sweaty workout I put myself through. I’ve been using the deodorant for about a month now, and I can see a noticeable lightening of the dark areas under my arms, as well. Everyone’s body chemistry is different, but this deodorant is honestly one of the best I’ve ever used! It’s definitely worth a try!!
***This is not a difficult recipe to put together, but you must follow the steps IN ORDER, and you MUST have a reliable, and accurate, pH tester. You MUST!! The initial pH of this formula sits in the VERY ACIDIC range of 2.2 to 2.6. It MUST be raised to a value of no less than 3.5! I try to keep it between a 3.5 - 4.0 range for the mandelic acid to be effective, yet as non-irritating as possible. Paper pH test strips are NOT going to cut it! You MUST have a proper, electronic pH reader! I’ve linked the one I use below - and if money is tight, it has a payment option (at the time of this blog post).
If you really want to try it, but you don’t have access to a pH reader or you just don’t want to make it, let me know! If there’s enough interest, I’ll sell the finished product on my website on a rolling, pre-order basis.
Watch me make this on our YouTube Channel HERE!
Mandelic Acid Lightening Deodorant
PHASE A:
26.28g / 52.55% Distilled Water
15g / 30% Chamomile Hydrosol
1g / 2% Propanediol
1g / 2% Glycerin
0.25g / 0.5% d,l Panthenol
0.2g / 0.4% Allantoin
2.5g / 5% Mandelic Acid
0.1g / 0.2% Alpha Arbutin
0.25g / 0.5% Zinc Pyrithione
PHASE B:
1.25g / 2.5% Polysorbate 80
0.75g / 1.5% Rosehip Seed Oil
0.42g / 0.85% **Green Tea & Lemongrass Fragrance Oil
0.05g / 0.1% Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
PHASE C:
*as needed Sodium Hydroxide Solution
0.25g / 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.5g / 1% Sepimax Zen
0.2g / 0.4% Hyaluronic Acid (High Molecular Weight)
__________
50g / 100%
**You MUST consult the IFRA certificate for the fragrance you want to use. Do not exceed the amount in category 2.
Instructions:
- Combine the first 4 ingredients in a sanitized vessel and stir to fully incorporate.
- Add the next 4 ingredients (panthenol, allantoin, mandelic acid, and alpha arbutin) to the vessel and stir to fully combine. This may take several minutes as the water is cold. Just stir, walk away for a minute or two and then come back and stir. Do not proceed until at least 99% of the powders are dissolved.
- Add the zinc pyrithione and stir thoroughly to combine.
- In a separate, sanitized bowl/vessel, combine all of the Phase B ingredients and stir together for 1 minute to really bind the polysorbate to the oils.
- Add the combined Phase B ingredients to Phase A and mix with an electric milk frother for 1 minute.
- Check and adjust pH NOW. Do not proceed until the pH is between 3.5 - 4.0. I use a 50% sodium hydroxide solution because it gets the job done without having to add too much additional liquid, but you can use something else for this purpose.
- Once pH is adjusted, add the Liquid Germall Plus and stir well to combine.
- Finally add the Sepimax Zen and Hyaluronic acid. Sprinkle them on top of the other ingredients and stir to wet the powders. Cover with some plastic wrap or aluminum foil and set aside for a couple of hours, or overnight.
- Blend the ingredients with a milk frother to fully incorporate the powders and transfer to a sanitized roll-on container.
- Enjoy!
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