One of my favorite cleansing creams is the Hydrating Facial Cleanser from Cerave. It’s a simple, unscented, light cream that does a lovely job gently lifting off sweat, oils, and very light makeup without stripping my skin too much. I began to think of ways I could tweak it to make it more suited to my needs, and this is what I came up with.
I knew I wanted to incorporate the centella hydrosol I made a couple of months ago. I wanted the soothing, calming quality centella brings. I also wanted to adjust the level of ceramide complex because even gentle surfactants can be stripping to my dry skin, and I wanted to add just a bit more to help mitigate that. I also wanted to add a couple of my favorite butters for added moisturization.Then, just because I have it and wanted to play a bit, I added just a touch of vitamin C in the form of 3-glycerol ascorbate - a stable derivative of vitamin C that is gentler on the skin. I know it won’t do MUCH considering it’s only on the skin for a minute, or so, but I just couldn’t help myself.
The surfactant I went with is Ultra Mild. Yes, I have other surfactants in my arsenal, but Ulta MIld is just a winner to me. It’s so gentle. It's “tear-free” and can be used to make baby wash and shampoo. I find it to be useful in all sorts of applications when a gentle, nicely-foaming surfactant will do. Now, it doesn’t foam in this formula because I used it at a very low percentage, but when it’s used in higher amounts, it’s soft, creamy foam is quite nice.
So, what we end up with is a lovely, creamy lotion that lifts off the day’s dirt and grime without leaving your skin stripped and tight. If you’re wearing a lot of makeup, or sunscreen, it’s best used as “part 2” of a 2-step cleanse.
This is great for those of us with quite dry skin, but if you have very oily skin, sub out those butters (6 grams total) for half water and half an oil of your choice, or all water.
Watch me make this cleansing cream on our YouTube channel HERE!
Centella Cleansing Cream w/ Vitamin C
Water Phase:
40.5g / 40.5% Distilled Water
30g / 30% Centella Hydrosol
Oil Phase:
2g / 2% Cetyl Alcohol
6g / 6% Ritamulse SCG
3g / 3% Squalane
6g / 6% Sunflower Oil
3g / 3% Cupuacu Butter
3g / 3% Horsetail Butter Blend
Cool Down:
4g / 4% Ultra Mild Surfactant
0.5g / 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.5g / 0.5% Vitamin E (tocopherol)
1g / 1% Ceramide Complex
0.5g / 0.5% 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate (Vitamin C)
_________
100g / 100%
Instructions:
- Combine the Water Phase ingredients in a sanitized, heat-safe vessel and set aside.
- Combine all Oil Phase ingredients in a separate sanitized, heat-safe vessel.
- Heat each phase (oil and water) in a microwave in 30 second bursts until the oil phase ingredients are melted and the water phase is piping hot.
- Carefully pour the heated Water Phase into the heater Oil Phase ingredients and blend to combine for about 1 minute. (For small batches, I use a mini-frother.) Set aside to cool, uncovered.
- Once the temperature is UNDER 122°F (50°C), add the Cool Down ingredients and stir well.
- Transfer into a sanitized bottle and cap once completely cooled.
- Enjoy!!
WHERE TO BUY
3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Vitamin C